Damp and Mould

lucienne


Joined: 29/01/2009
Posts: 129

Message Posted:
29/01/2009 22:16

hi, I'm going back to my house in TRNC in March. Every time I go I seem to spend hours scrubbing mould off of the walls and trying to get rid of the smell of damp. Is there a solution to this?

Is it because te house is left empty most of the year? Does anyone else have the same problem?

Any idea welcome please.

Blackpoolfan


Joined: 03/12/2008
Posts: 1568

Message Posted:
29/01/2009 22:40

Lucienne,

The main culprit is ventilation lack of it causes condensation which causes mould...... Air the property at regular intervals then you will have no problem

mikelapta



Joined: 20/11/2008
Posts: 2186

Message Posted:
29/01/2009 23:08

Hi Lucienne,Blackpool fan is right.Now I live here after having as holiday home I can see the problems.A few days of windows open makes all the difference,and some warm weather.Have you neighbours?If Lapta area,I will help

bachelibelly


Joined: 04/09/2008
Posts: 275

Message Posted:
29/01/2009 23:15

Not wishing to pour oil on your fire but i think the problem goes deeper than just "opening a few windows"

lucienne


Joined: 29/01/2009
Posts: 129

Message Posted:
29/01/2009 23:14

Thanks Mike, but we are nowhere near Lapta.

Can you be a bit more specific bahcelibelly please?

michelle3012


Joined: 07/11/2008
Posts: 578

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 00:47

Its called Salt Efflorecense, its caused by salt in the sand, and it comes out of the concrete, under tiles etc, its like a white fur. I know this will sound disgusting, but if you wipe your finger in it and taste it, it will taste of salt. This then causes damp which then turns to mould. You can treat it, with specialist chemicals. Not an easy job to rectify, there are damp proof companies around. It is mainly caused because of poor damp coursing.

A lot of people call it the Cyprus rust!

gates


Joined: 08/12/2008
Posts: 1096

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 01:08

there is no damp coursing that is the problem or membrain you will always hav this as concrete will absorb moistour from the ground some times you can treat this with a sealent called fix witch you can get from marsalls this is also used as a stabaliser cant promise this will cure all but you can give it a go

DONTY


Joined: 07/06/2007
Posts: 534

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 01:43

Buy a Dehumidifier.



I bought mine in the UK for under £100 and checked it as luggage on CTA.



It will ease the symptoms but not cure the cause but sure is a useful bit of kit.

maxwell


Joined: 12/01/2009
Posts: 12

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 01:58

If damp is black brown or orange its caused by condensation we leave the bathroom window open on the security latch and leave bowls of salt in all rooms leave wadrobe and kitchen doors open. We also got it in our caravan if left un-opened over winter. Maxwell from edrimit

markvpiazza


Joined: 14/08/2008
Posts: 530

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 11:03

Lucienne



Our house is empty all winter but never has damp or mould (except for a little in one corner due to getting soaked during construction), so I would suggest lack of damp course is the root problem.



Try leaving curtains open and allow some ventillation if possible.





Maxwell r.e damp in caravan



Do you shut the curtains in winter, if you do, this will be a large part of your problem.

Leaving the curtains open allows sunlight to enter the van, and its warming effect will help circulate the air, keeping the place fresh (for those who don't know, caravans have lots of built in air vents.)



MVP

Menace


Joined: 22/11/2008
Posts: 93

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 11:26

Is Cyprus an earthquake zone,if it is there should not be a damp proof course as it makes the building dangerous.Here in Crete we get the same problems,we are an earthquake zone,had one last week,so no damp proof courses here.

Wiser


Joined: 30/07/2008
Posts: 796

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 11:39

You could always have some attractive metal work put on your windows so that you can leave them open a little to air your property but not run the risk of being broken into. We have done this on my mothers apartment and it has made all the difference, no mould to date!

Isabella


Joined: 02/10/2008
Posts: 199

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 12:33

Suggest putting vents in each room, or leaving containers of salt in each room. Unless builder states in specification, there will be no damp course in your property, as in Turkey/Cyprus or other such countries in the earthquate zone do not put damp courses as such.

markvpiazza


Joined: 14/08/2008
Posts: 530

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 14:00

Isabella



If you look at the state of some of the old buildings that are still standing you'll realise there are only very mild earthquakes felt in the north



Mark

jay76


Joined: 17/07/2008
Posts: 532

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 15:03

No damp proof course is the problem, you cant put damp proof in when you got steel rods running through concrete, some villas do have a damp proof paint type around the property but most of damp will come from the corners of building where the steels go right down below ground level allowing the damp to rise.

Harlequin


Joined: 02/10/2008
Posts: 346

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 15:36

Cyprus Solutions should be able to help you:



0533 836 7904



cyprussolutions@hotmail.com

lucienne


Joined: 29/01/2009
Posts: 129

Message Posted:
30/01/2009 19:29

Thanks all for your help, I don't think that it is to do with the damp course, i think it is to do with the humidity and you are probably right, about ventilation. We have no windows which we can leave open and no vents.

Hatty


Joined: 13/07/2008
Posts: 260

Message Posted:
03/02/2009 18:33

I think I may have found a soultion to your mould and damp problem and I am having it installed in my house shortly, (there may also be other benefits such as free heating) but I will report back once it is up and running.

biglugs


Joined: 02/10/2008
Posts: 157

Message Posted:
03/02/2009 19:00

Hi,

As a qualified builder(UK) the main problem i see here is after they put in the foundations,they infill and with what?any rubbish they can find .Soil seems to the fav and guess what you get coming up through your floors and walls,DAMP,its all down to construction

david123


Joined: 07/07/2008
Posts: 393

Message Posted:
03/02/2009 19:00

Hi Hatty,



Please make sure you do report back.



Sounds very good, may have one myself if all is ok.



Thnaks.



David

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
03/02/2009 19:01

hatty, what is it? give us some more details please.. If its a airventilation system with integrated heat exchanger check for efficiency values.. We have nice high efficeint Helios/stiebel eltron products availlable for such purposes, also been used in our first zero energy house in alsancak.

Hatty


Joined: 13/07/2008
Posts: 260

Message Posted:
03/02/2009 19:22

I will as soon as I have it installed and I am sure it works

laptagal


Joined: 28/05/2008
Posts: 549

Message Posted:
03/02/2009 20:05

Hi Hatty, hope it works and look forward to hearing about it.

MUSIN M


Joined: 26/06/2008
Posts: 1352

Message Posted:
03/02/2009 21:38

damp is wet walls caused from the ground, capillary and only rises to about a meter in height,mould is caused by poor ventilation ,you can have trickle vents fitted in your windows and you can easily fit them yourselves at a low cost around 15 quid a window,they work well.





musin

fire starter


Joined: 19/06/2008
Posts: 3401

Message Posted:
03/02/2009 22:51

musin

it only reaches about a meter high in the uk as most houses should have some sort of damp course! or defective damp course.

skies the limit here in the trnc,lol.

my house is ancient and we don't have a damp course , damp or condensation, how did they do it in the old days here musin?

Barrovians1


Joined: 18/01/2009
Posts: 25

Message Posted:
04/02/2009 09:19

Musin



Grateful if you would elaborate a bit more on the trickle vents foe windows.



Thanks

Bob.

Pogle


Joined: 28/08/2008
Posts: 1536

Message Posted:
04/02/2009 10:09

For those of you who live here, your aircon Arselik or other should have a de-humidify setting. This has been very effective with our damp and condensation issues. It is VERY economical to run. On the Arselik units it is the teardrop function I think but refer to the manual. We leave on for 24hrs. We had some mattresses that felt damp and these were completely dry after one session. Obviously this is no help to the owner who does not live here but she could turn on this function when she gets here for a couple of days.

Mountain Edge



Joined: 23/02/2007
Posts: 199

Message Posted:
04/02/2009 11:40

I knocked through walls in several rooms and put in vents last year and this seems to have done the trick. What I also did was put a piece of thin net behind the vent to stop any little visitors getting in.(TOUCH WOOD)

I am back over in March and, hopefully, wont find my house infested.

MUSIN M


Joined: 26/06/2008
Posts: 1352

Message Posted:
04/02/2009 22:39

barrovianns 1

they are fitted on the tops of your windows and can be left open to allow air

circulation flow ,they are cheap and come in a couple of sizes and are routered into the tops of the windows and just screwed into place.



easy,peasey



musin

rsalih


Joined: 01/11/2008
Posts: 306

Message Posted:
04/02/2009 23:14

what about if the windows are double glazed ....musin

spook


Joined: 23/01/2008
Posts: 244

Message Posted:
05/02/2009 02:01

They are fitted into the window frame, not the glass panel.

Cyprusactive


Joined: 20/05/2008
Posts: 128

Message Posted:
05/02/2009 07:03

Rising and pemertrating damp are certainly problems but mould and a general damp feeling to a property are usually a function of heat and ventilation. Tirckle vents do work but as windows seldom have a wooden surround it means cutting a slot either in aluminimum or PVC frames which often have a metal insert, not so easy. At Cyprus Solutions we have a massive diamond core drill and cut a hole through any wall and fit a vent cover either side one having a closing slider. The vents have an integral insect screen. Most of the damp proof products are covering up the problem not curing it . De humidifiers are very good and we have a some commercial versions which inlude a small heater so the air output is warmed, warm air will absorb the damp from your wall faster. We do hire these out when we have some spare. See Cyprus today next week as I will mention more in the Mr Fixit column. Gas fire are a huge source of damp as is cooking so vented cooker hoods are very worthwhile. Regards

Nick

cruggs


Joined: 06/04/2008
Posts: 498

Message Posted:
05/02/2009 11:53

de humidifiers are good as we have one in our home in the u.k,but they won't

cure the problem of rising damp,which is not condensation as they are two, different things,as has been said before, rising damp is a construction problem

when moisture is drawn up from the ground into the walls,this shows up as staining or mould at or around ground level.this sometime's looks like a tide mark on the plaster or wallpaper.in the uk you can have your wall's,

injected with a damp-proofer,which works well with a brick construction but not sure if it will work on your concrete,structures.make sure there is no earth

piled up against the walls,as this can help the moisture penetrate the walls.

cruggs


Joined: 06/04/2008
Posts: 498

Message Posted:
05/02/2009 12:47

continued,condensation is another thing.the best way get rid of condensation

is to provide a free flow of air into the room, or rooms affected either by opening windows or by fitting x tractor fans into the walls,these should be of the automatic type,that switch themselfs on when moisture above a pre-set

level is detected by the x tractor fan,this will then run on untill the moisture level in the room drops to the pre set level that you have selected on the fan.

room's most affected are bathrooms,showerooms and kitchens.if you have condensation, behind kitchen base units you can also get small air vents,

fitted to the kick plates on the bottom of the base units to allow an air

circulation behind the units. if you want x tractor fan's fitted you will have to have 4"--6" holes drilled through the walls at high level,and then wired into the circuit.these measures should cure the condensation problem.

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
06/02/2009 12:07

sounds like big building work. 4" - 6" holes...

fans monted into windows and/or window frames...

the expensive fans with moisture presets....

dehumidifiers....

the electric connection and nice cabelling and the electricity to run them....

or injections...

the devaluation of thousands of propertys.... serious health problems might occur (mould is usually highly toxic) and all this because the builders dont care about the damp course and a proper ventilation. and the architects not either.

unbelievable.



but when a lot of people only look out for a bargain, believe in estate agents, spend the money for marble floors and call that "luxury" and not investing into a good construction then they have to pay later for it, fe now.

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
06/02/2009 12:08

cont.



my advice, lucienne, dig.

dig a 1,2 meter ditch around your house in march, leave it dry till juli, put a damp course to the outside and a drainage pipe.

install one or two DC fans with dust filters runned by solar energy which makes sure that they only work when there is sun and dry air available. open inside doors that way that a circulation in the house is achieved and give it a exhaust hole at the opposite side. dont open the windows, leave the sink cabinet doors open.

and hope.



(in old times they very often did the damp course with clay as a barrier layer)

Hatty


Joined: 13/07/2008
Posts: 260

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 12:12

I think I have found an answer!



I found a company who manufacture solar powered vents/de-humidifiers and tracked down a dealer in Cyprus(South). I have had a unit delivered to my house and it is propped up against the wall awaiting installation. I wired it up and when switched on a constant stream of warm air is forced out of the vent at the back. I think it will solve the mould problem and I hope provide some background heat in the cooler months when I move in permanently.

It looks like it will work all day long in the sunshine, even when I am not there, at no cost.



I am thinking of having the supplementary cooling fan fitted as well.



I will report back when the unit is installed but it looks like it will work.



The web site is http://www.Solaair.com and the man to contact is Dennis

keithcaley



Joined: 13/06/2008
Posts: 2521

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 12:27

msg 37,



That sounds like a good idea, as long as it vents the warm, moist air to the outside world.



If not, then as soon as the sun goes down & the house cools down, the moisture will drop back out of the air and condense into wet patches on the walls again.



Sorry for the non-technical language, but I think you get the idea!



Keith.

Hatty


Joined: 13/07/2008
Posts: 260

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 12:46

Keith,



The unit forces warm DRY air into the house and forces the humid air in the house out through natural gaps around and under doors and windows etc.

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 13:15

BTW: We have already installed Solar hot air collector in an Lapta Village Houe. No need to go to the south. If its renewable energy, we got it!! If you are interested please dont hesitate to contact us via http://www.cyprussunenergy.com

Hatty, "Forces air out through natural gaps.." Dont want to know what enters the house through this natural gaps ..

These hot air collectors can supply 100 % of heating during the daytime. A very good solution for offices an daytime permises.. Think about it.. Can be combined also with an airventilation heat recovery system to heat up the whole house etc.. Go green and benefit!

Regards Henrik

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 13:56

a solar air-thermal is a good solution to reduce heating costs and humidity.

we just installed a system in Lapta.

these systems can be made locally as well and are "the oncomimg future" for back up heating, drying and other purposes.



for more info

http://www.kibsolar.com and

http://www.grammer-solar.com/en/index.htm

we are accredited partners



what keith said is right.

in homes there should be no "natural circulation", it should be a "controlled ventilation" to avoid heat losses.

as much you have to "force" air to the outside as lower the intake is (pressure losses), so its better to install an outlet or a heat recovery system, see website.



lucienne could try with controlled ventilation as I suggested and if there is a solar air-thermal involved...even better.

the damp is another problem...

hatty, the cooling section of "sola-air" will not work...why not?

contact me.

keithcaley



Joined: 13/06/2008
Posts: 2521

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 13:58

Hatty,



I see, - I didn't realise that it had an air intake from outside.

Obviously if it takes air from outside, de-humidifies it, and uses it to displace the moist air inside, it will do a great job!

I don't suppose that you know if there's a website or anything? - failing that, Make and model number would be most welcome.

Regards,

Keith.

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 14:06

The website direct ot the product: http://www.grammer-solar.com/en/products/twinsolar/index.shtml

They start to copy them everywhere



Regards, Henrik

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 14:09

sorry forgot to add this: http://www.grammer-solar.com/en/products/twinsolar/operation.shtml A very nice explanation, including drawings, on how they work. http://www.cyprussunenergy.com

Henrik

Hatty


Joined: 13/07/2008
Posts: 260

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 14:25

Keith - the web site is http://www.Solaair.com and the man to speak to is Dennis



Kibsolar - I looked at the Grammer-Solar units and they cost substantially more money.

lucienne


Joined: 29/01/2009
Posts: 129

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 14:26

Hi Hatty,

I'm extremely interested in this, it sounds as if it is what I might need. I'm getting a bit confused now, with all of the suggestions. I've looked at the Solaair website. Just out of interest, did you view this before you bought it? If so did you see it in Cyprus or were you able to view it in England? We always seem to have so much to fit in the short while we are in Cyprus,

Lucienne

Hatty


Joined: 13/07/2008
Posts: 260

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 14:37

Lucienne



I had a man from solaair come to my house in Engalnd and demonstrate it. He set it up and almost instantly warm air came out of the vent on the back of the unit. He arranged delivery and I am just waiting for him to get the installation done. I am hoping the unit will not only cure the humidity but provide background heating in the winter and therefore reduce my heating cost (not heating house from "cold"), and, with the additional fan on the cool side of the house reduce the air con use. As I see it, it will work all day for no cost even when I am away. It sounds an ideal solution to mould with some added benefits but I will let you know how I get on overthe coming months.



Hatty

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
14/02/2009 15:21

Hatty, Really?,

must have something to do that it is good german stuff with more output than the sola-air equipment.

anyway, the technology for cyprus can be adapted and "local made" is possible

to reduced costs.

the output temp at 15 o clock in Lapta is 42 degree C.



just to remind you all that the import of products from the south side is only possible for an additional 30% VAT.

maxwell


Joined: 12/01/2009
Posts: 12

Message Posted:
15/02/2009 01:48

Hi Biglugs. Regarding rising damp problems. How do we install a DPC in our second floor appartment we do not see a lot of rain for 10 months of the year perhaps our damp is due to a leeking swiming pool or it might just be condensation. Just had another thought after 10 bottles of effes I have noticed a rising damp on toilet wall should have gone to spec savers.

david123


Joined: 07/07/2008
Posts: 393

Message Posted:
15/02/2009 23:27

Hi Hatty,



Please could you tell me how you get on with this,



would be interested in this asap if all is ok, will contact Dennis when you update us.



Thanks.



David

glenton


Joined: 06/09/2008
Posts: 40

Message Posted:
16/02/2009 00:05

Hi Maxwell



My thoughts exactly, werenot on ground floor as you no, and since your advice of leaving all our doors open and salt in every room, as well as window on lock slightly open our damp patches have gone (as well as sealing roof from a few leaks)

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
16/02/2009 22:23

update:

the outlet temp of our system monted in Lapta reached today, in cloudy and rainy conditions, 30 degrees.

the SolarVenti SV7 from solaair, good for 40 m² rooms, does cost 650 euro, excluding roc VAT, an additional 30% tax in the trnc, without monting.

the SV14 for 70m² is available for 865 euro (size 200cmx71cm, 20 kilo) and the SV 30 for 1370 euro, plus tax,tax



maybe you consider a system from us.

ppersonn@gmx.net

lucienne


Joined: 29/01/2009
Posts: 129

Message Posted:
16/02/2009 22:47

Hi Kibsolar,

Can I buy the Sola-air units from you in TRNC?

Could you tell me what I would need for a 140m2 house please?

Would there be any sort of warranty?

Thanks

Lucienne

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
17/02/2009 10:27

no, iam not a solaair dealer.



lucienne, i didnt see you house, the directions, roof space, the walls, the general conditions, where to connect them....as a DC or AC type...



fe, a single unit, 4 sqm big, would create a " desert-like wind storm" fe in your sleeping room and even might overheat it.



yes, there is a "sort of warranty"

lets meet at your house and then we will see what the best solution will be for you.



three years ago i wanted to buy something in the RoC and i did ask for warranty....yes, of course, but.... no work permits for service staff = no insurance, no insurance for the service car, illegal in general from the point of the RoC and from the TRNCs point as well...

Dennis


Joined: 25/08/2008
Posts: 14

Message Posted:
17/02/2009 13:46

Hi Lucienne.

At sola-air we can supply you with solarventi units shipped direct from the manufacturer. For the area of property you are talking about you would probably need either two SV14 units or one SV30 but we would req a site survey.Dont forget you can also connect our units to a cooling system and whilst it wont cool your house fully it will reduce the need for air conditioning :-

Reducing your electricity bills in the summer as well.

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
17/02/2009 15:00

wonderful.

another member doing business here...now from the RoC? coming from the RoC and do a site survey in the TRNC?

It just keeps getting better!



anyway, Dennis from Bedford, UK, or RoC?, if you're going to talk the talk, you've got to walk the walk:

what are the shipping costs? how long does it take?

how much import tax lucienne would have to pay?

who, lucienne?, is going to import and do all the customs procederes and how much it does cost and when the SV 14 will finally arrive at her home? and who is installing them?

and if you are from solaair why you dont offer ME, a respected RE dealer and installer, the TC dealer and partnership? could be a bi-communal solar partnership



peter

Dennis


Joined: 25/08/2008
Posts: 14

Message Posted:
17/02/2009 17:56

Hi Peter,

I am finding it difficult to understand your attitude, Are you afraid of competition? We have experienced engineers in Cyprus who have been fitting these units for years but if you would like to talk about a partnership we would be more than happy to talk to you. At least all this banter is making people aware that these products exist and that can only be a good thing. We could rid the world of damp together ill be the Lone Ranger you can be Tonto.



All the best

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
17/02/2009 22:51

hi Dennis,

where you are based? the UK? Cyprus? you live in the TRNC!?

if you dont have a work permit in the TRNC, your activities and of all your engineers, even for a site survey, are illegal. that simple it is.

you dont understand my attitude? iam angry, Dennis.

you openly offer site surveys, direct trade = sales in this forum, and installation of your products. You obviously don’t have a TC partner.

BUT IF iam interested, you would consider partnership?

And if iam not? you continue?

Iam not afraid of competition at all. here in North Cyprus iam the representative of fantastic companies. for this quality range of products i dont have a competitor!



iam aware of the different techniques of solar air thermals.

lets meet and we will see whether you can convince me of SolaVenti.

by the way…pls answer the questions from msg 56

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
19/02/2009 17:01

back to the top...

Soothsayer


Joined: 19/11/2008
Posts: 134

Message Posted:
20/02/2009 11:16

very intresting thread but it seems like all have left the pitch.. what a pitty

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
29/07/2009 16:17

yes, its summer and its hot....

but, the winter is coming...and WE are still here and would like to advice you about solar air heating and ventilation to avoid damp and mould and, if dimensioned a little bigger, also heat your home with warm air heated up from the sun.

thats why i bring it up to the

TOP

dizzy


Joined: 28/07/2009
Posts: 25

Message Posted:
29/07/2009 17:22

Poweryourlife in Catalkoy have the solution to this with testimonials as support. Contact Mike at poweryour_life@yahoo.com

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
30/07/2009 01:32

dizzy

THAT testimonial pls make accessible for us all. thanks.

Hatty


Joined: 13/07/2008
Posts: 260

Message Posted:
30/07/2009 01:38

Peter, How big a solar panel will I need for a 10m x 5m pool pump? I asked the question on the solar pool pump thread, twice, but you do not seem to want to furnish the details.

kibsolar


Joined: 14/09/2008
Posts: 552

Message Posted:
30/07/2009 01:56

sorry hatty,

your first question came in at 23:34...your second at 1:28 am. this is a forum, not a messanger

Pipie


Joined: 05/01/2008
Posts: 5499

Message Posted:
18/01/2010 15:16

Hatty can you update us on the unit you had fitted please ?